Yoichi, a small town on the island of Hokkaido in Japan, has transformed into a recognized wine center thanks to the gradual warming of the climate, which has allowed local grape growers to cultivate the delicate Pinot Noir variety.
Over the past twenty years, temperatures here have noticeably increased, prompting farmers to experiment with this temperamental grape.
Yoichi gained international recognition five years ago when a Pinot Noir from Domaine Takahiko appeared at the Copenhagen restaurant Noma. Since then, the price of a bottle has risen from $30 to $560. Today, there are about twenty wineries and seventy vineyards in the region, already awarded numerous accolades.
However, winemakers are concerned about sharp temperature fluctuations and increased rainfall during the harvest season. Weather conditions are becoming increasingly unpredictable and could negatively impact the Pinot Noir crop. This variety is particularly sensitive to climate fluctuations: too warm a summer leads to excessive sugar accumulation and reduced acidity.
Additionally, in recent years, there has been a sharp increase in the number of birds eating grapes, which is attributed to climate change and the reduction of natural food sources in the mountains.
The mayor of the city has established cooperation with the historic wine region of Burgundy to exchange experiences and knowledge. Winemakers are considering switching to new varieties—Merlot and Syrah—as further climate changes may limit the potential of Pinot Noir.
In response to weather challenges, Domaine Takahiko has built an underground cellar for one hundred barrels, where optimal storage conditions are maintained. Farmers understand that adapting to new climate realities is essential to preserving Yoichi's winemaking reputation in the future.
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