Amber and Beaver Castoreum: The Strangest Components in Perfumery 0 35

When we talk about our favorite fragrance, we rarely think about what lies behind its warm trail or lasting base. Advertisements feature "leather notes," "floral accord," or "musk base," but few know that these mysterious terms can conceal quite unexpected components. Some of them have natural animal origins, while others are derived from extremely unusual sources.

Yet, despite their strange origins, these ingredients have been used in elite perfumery for centuries: they give perfumes depth, a warm intimate aura, and a uniqueness that makes the scent interesting to unfold on the skin. We discuss what amazing and slightly strange components can be found even in the most refined perfume pyramids and why they are needed.

Amber

Origin: Intestinal secretion of the sperm whale

Despite its romantic sound, amber is a substance that forms in the stomach of the sperm whale to protect its digestive system from sharp squid beaks. After amber is expelled into the ocean and "ripens" under the sun and saltwater for a long time, it acquires a sweet-salty, warm aroma with musky and tobacco notes.

It is mature amber that perfumers use as a scent fixative, giving perfumes longevity and sensuality. In some vintage perfumes (and even in niche ones), you can find real amber, but more often it is replaced by a synthetic analogue — ambroxan.

Civet

Origin: Secretions from the glands of the African civet (an animal resembling a ferret)

Civet gives perfumes a characteristic "animal" nuance — sharp, warm, and somewhat reminiscent of leather. In small doses, it makes the scent more appealing, enhancing the individuality of the smell. Once, civet was used in almost all classic perfumes — for example, in the vintage formula of Chanel No. 5.

Today, natural civet is hardly used: firstly, for ethical reasons, and secondly, due to its high cost — it has been completely replaced by synthetic analogues.

Castoreum

Origin: Beaver castoreum — secretions from the glands of Canadian and European beavers

This component is a true perfumery artifact. It smells simultaneously of leather, musk, smoke, and forest earth. Castoreum is added to leather compositions to give them richness and vintage depth. For example, it was an important accord in Dior Leather Oud and other "chypre" perfumes.

Like other animal components, natural castoreum is now extremely rare: it is most often imitated using synthetic materials.

Oud

Origin: Resinous wood from the agarwood tree affected by mold

Oud, also known as agarwood, is one of the most expensive components in the world of perfumery. Real oud smells of smoke, woody resin, spices, and a slight bitterness, and it is loved in Eastern perfumery for its rich sound and longevity.

Interestingly, oud appears only when the agarwood tree is affected by a specific fungus, hence its high cost: up to $5,000 per kilogram of natural ingredient. Today, synthetic substitutes for oud are also actively used.

Indole

Origin: A natural component found in jasmine flowers, daffodils, and even in… feces

Indole is a molecule that smells differently depending on its concentration: from floral aroma to the scent of sweat. It is indole that creates a "dirty" depth in jasmine compositions and is responsible for the animalistic, dense character of some floral perfumes. Without it, white flowers would sound plastic.

In small doses, indole adds sensuality, making the scent less sterile — for example, you can hear indole in Serge Lutens A La Nuit.

Guaiac Wood

Origin: Wood from a South American tree known as the tree of life

Not the strangest in origin, but an amazing component in aroma. Guaiac wood smells simultaneously of wood, chocolate, smoked resin, and fire: it is used in warm compositions with an oriental inclination, as a base or smoky accent. It has become popular in men's niche perfumery, but is often found in women's fragrances as well.

The next time you choose a perfume, try to read the pyramid: who knows, perhaps something amazing like beaver castoreum or oud has long been living in your favorite scent.