Preparing a fur coat for autumn is not a ritual for when you have nothing to do on a dreary autumn evening, but rather an insurance against matted fur, bald spots, and what can be described as an unpleasant closet smell. To ensure your fur coat looks expensive and lasts long, it is important to follow some fairly simple rules. These apply to mink, sable, arctic fox, astrakhan, and muton sheepskin with nuances depending on the type of fur.
Airing and Awakening the Fur
Remove the cover, shake the item, and let it breathe on wide hangers for a day in a room without high humidity and direct sunlight. Smooth the pile with your palm in the direction of growth, and use a soft brush with natural bristles on narrow areas. For long-haired fur, add short shakes to allow the guard hairs to lie loosely. A light "bath" with a damp towel on a radiator in a nearby room is acceptable, but keep the fur itself away from heat.
Inspection and Minor Repairs Before Use
Check the shoulders, collar, and loops — these are high-stress areas. Repair any broken stitches and loose loops immediately to avoid tearing the skin while wearing it. Inspect the hem and sleeves — if the pile is matted, gently fluff it with a brush. A life hack for a wrinkled lining: hang the fur and steam it from a distance with a garment steamer, covering the fur with cotton fabric. Smooth the flaps and pockets through the fabric. Do not press a hot iron against the leather, as this can irreparably damage it.
Cleanliness and Odor Neutralization
Remove dust with a soft brush. For small household stains on the lining, dab them with a solution of mild shampoo and water, then wipe with a dry cloth. Do not apply cleaning products directly to the fur. Airing it out and placing a sachet of cedar shavings in the cover will eliminate closet odors, but keep perfume bottles away — alcohol and oils dry out the hair and leather, causing the pile to break. If there are old stains or bald spots, do not experiment with powders; a professional cleaning at a fur atelier with a complete oil treatment for the leather is beneficial once a season.
Storage in the City and While Traveling
Use only wide anatomical hangers to avoid "bumping" the fur. Choose a breathable cover made of cotton or spunbond; polyethylene is prohibited. The closet needs air, as a tight fit shoulder to shoulder will damage the pile. The optimal humidity is around forty-five percent, with a cool temperature. Moths and leather beetles dislike cleanliness and airflow, so periodically move the hangers, and place cedar, lavender, or neutral-scented wardrobe plates in the cover. For travel, use a long garment bag and a separate space in the car to avoid crushing the bottom.
Use Without Surprises
If you get caught in wet snow or drizzle (not such a rare situation in our climate) — shake off the droplets, let the fur drip on the hangers, and dry it at room temperature. Remember, a hairdryer and radiator are strictly prohibited! After drying, brush the fur in the direction of the pile. Carry your bag on a long strap and switch shoulders to avoid rubbing the fur. For long-haired arctic fox and fox, avoid clingy accessories and rough scarf fabrics; for mink and sable, the main thing is not to over-dry, or else dullness will appear.
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