- ...and beautiful in any season!
What comes to mind first when mentioning Jūrmala? Of course, the sea, the beach, the pedestrian street Jomas, and the Dzintari Concert Hall. Yes, and also the Lielupe with its picturesque banks... However, there are many more vivid impressions waiting for you here! Let’s set off to discover a new, unknown Jūrmala.
The Ringing Silence of the Kemeri Marshes
Our journey begins with... a marsh. Yes, indeed: Jūrmala is not only about the sea and the beach; it has the Great Kemeri Marsh, sprawling across the territory of the national park of the same name. In the morning hours, an incredible silence reigns here, occasionally broken by the singing of birds. And although there are wooden walkways laid out for walks, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to stroll through the marsh, so to speak, in a more extreme way — in special marsh “muck boots.” This is something to try!
Wonderful, White, Romantic...
...Our minibus temporarily transforms into a time machine: from the wild nature of the Kemeri marsh, we find ourselves in just a few minutes in a completely different world — a world of gallant gentlemen and beautiful ladies spending time at the resort. In fact, there are neither ladies nor gentlemen here, but there are all the structures that were once built for a beautiful life “by the waters”: pavilions of incredible beauty, picturesque walking paths, rose gardens, canals with bridges over them, reminiscent of Venice...
The Kemeri Park was designed and created in 1839 by the Riga gardener Karlis Heinrichs Wagner. Since then, it has seen different times; however, in 2021, the city, with co-financing from the EU, restored the entire infrastructure of the park, also turning the historical 42-meter water tower into a tourist attraction. At the end of October, the tower closes, but it will be open again from May of the following year. And if you are not afraid of heights, be sure to go up to the observation deck! It takes your breath away — both from the beauty and from the height...
Count or Prince — Dive into the Mud!
Yes, once lying in the “mud” of Kemeri was indeed a privilege only for the rich and noble. Then, of course, everything changed. Now we are offered to lie in the mud at the Jaunkemeri Resort Rehabilitation Center. This mud is unique, special, therapeutic, capable of helping with various ailments. The raw material for the baths is sourced in tons from the Sloka marsh area, then carefully cleaned and mixed with local mineral water and prepared for procedures. The recipes for health are reliable, tested over decades.
Delicious and Sad...
Delicious — because in October, Jūrmala hosted the Restaurant Week, which involved about two dozen of the best local restaurateurs. Sad — because it is impossible to try everything they offer! By the way, in Jūrmala, besides well-known restaurants with loud names and reputations, new places are constantly opening where you can eat deliciously and, importantly, to suit any taste and budget. So, it’s definitely not worth going to Jūrmala with your sandwich!
Paintings, Quest, and Wooden “Lace”
In a small but very beautiful historical wooden building in Dubulti, which houses the Jūrmala Center for Cultural Space and Environmental Design, we are greeted by Beauty — with two exhibitions.
The first — paintings from a bank collection, the second — samples of unique wooden decor. Describing both makes no sense: this is exactly the case when it’s better to see it once. Moreover, entry here is free, as it is in other city museums of Jūrmala.
In the third, small room, you will see... almost all the city’s environmental objects, but in miniature. An idea for families with children: first, look at all these figurines — mermaids, seagulls, silver “cones,” and others — in the Center, and then try to find them all “in the field” in their full size together with the children. A fantastic outdoor quest for a whole day!
Behind the Scenes of Dzintari
In the Dzintari Concert Hall, everything looks familiar: pines entwined with autumn crimson wild grapes, posters... There are no familiar crowds of spectators: we have arrived not for a concert, but to peek into the “holy of holies” of the legendary Small Concert Hall. Sounds of music can be heard — someone is rehearsing for today’s performance. We are told about the unique acoustics of the hall, shown the dressing rooms where artists prepare to go on stage; one of them is the personal dressing room of Raimonds Pauls, which no one dares to enter if the Maestro is inside. We walk through winding corridors, climb a spiral staircase to the stage, retracing the path of the people who delight us with their creativity. The autumn-winter concert season is now in full swing — chamber, cozy, very soulful, and warm. As for specifics — keep an eye on the poster!
And Finally — “Prussak”!
One of the concluding points of our tour is a brewery in the very center of Jūrmala. When asked where such a rather unusual name comes from, the co-owner of the brewery, Ugis, simply replies: there is a Latvian expression “napilis kā prussaks,” something like the Russian “napился в стельку,” and so on. However, to “nap in style” with Prussak beer, you have to try hard: it’s not very strong.
Jūrmala brewers take a different approach — unusual ingredients and a huge variety: they currently produce more than a dozen (!) types of beer with the most diverse flavors, including the taste of quince and... tomato juice! And, according to Ugis, this is not the limit...
The names are equally interesting. How about this — beer “Biceps”? And each label on the bottles is a masterpiece of hipster art, created, by the way, by the brewers themselves...
...We meet twilight on the terrace of the 5-star hotel “Baltic Beach Hotel.” Seeing the sunset is something you simply cannot leave Jūrmala without! And having seen it, you can leave — but with the thought of returning here as soon as possible...
